Bike routes and black olives
This is an excerpt from my new book, Tutto Nascosto: A Bike Ride Down the Appian Way. If you would like to download the entire e-book, leave a comment below and I’ll make sure you get a copy. Your email will not be published, and I will never share it with anyone.
The archeologist in Rome told me my bike trip would be impossibile. Francesco assured me non e’ difficile. Leaving Terracina, I hope the journey will be easy but not too easy. It’s been a good bike tour so far, but I feel like I’m waiting for something to happen.
The ride out of Terracina starts to climb into the hills, and pretty soon I’m winding my way upward through a glittering jewel box of flowers, oak trees and olive groves. When I meet a farmer selling black olives on the roadside, I buy a whole bag and greedily devour them on rest stops.
The modern road, SS7, zig-zags through switchbacks as it winds up into the mountains. Each time around, I notice the route coincides with the remains of an older, grass-covered road bed. This is the true Appian Way.
The old road is undaunted by the mountain. It plods straight up the grade, unstoppable like the armies that used to use it. Riding up the modern road is challenging enough, but not daunting, and I’m thinking seriously about braving the weeds and stones of via Appia antica on my bike.
As if on cue, I wheel up to the entrance of an archeological park. Inside, I follow the usual basalt paving stones of the Appian Way, along with the remains of buildings from ancient Rome, the middle ages, and the Renaissance.
As in many places in Italy, the architecture here is a hodgepodge of different periods and styles. Each building is built up over an earlier one, and everybody borrows foundations, walls, and pillars from other buildings.
I got used to seeing this phenomenon everywhere when I lived in Rome. Much of the marble from the Colosseum, for example, was taken by the Barbarini family to build St. Peter’s square in the Vatican. Similarly, if you go into some of the older churches in Rome you’ll notice that the pillars don’t always match. This is because they were pilfered from different ancient Roman buildings.
As I ponder this, munching on salty black olives, I think how much our civilization, and even we as individuals, are collections of endless stories, ideals, influences and philosophies borrowed from different times and places.
As Bruce Lee was fond of saying, “Absorb what is useful, discard what is useless, and add what is uniquely your own.”
Perhaps my own bicycle quest is my unique addition to the long history of this majestic road and the beautiful lands it passes through. Think about your own journeys as you read this. What will you add to the world that is uniquely your own?
This is an excerpt from my new book, Tutto Nascosto: A Bike Ride Down the Appian Way. If you would like to download the entire e-book, leave a comment below and I’ll make sure you get a copy. Your email will not be published, and I will never share it with anyone.
Tags: ancient Roman roads, Appian Way, Terracina, touring, via Appia


I was in terracina last year. Like to stay in a villa and ride bicycle around the beach, hills, etc.
I’ve really enjoyed reading your blog, it’s very informative and actually I’m considering trying the Rome to Brindisi bike ride myself, maybe in April/May this year. I’d probably take 3 weeks (19 days) off work but aim to complete the ride in 12-14 days. I’ve found a bike shop online based in Rome who hire out touring bikes and panniers and other equipment ( as i want to avoid the hassle of taking my bike on a plane) but I just wonder whether I can get a train back from Brindisi at the end of the ride. What do you think? If you have any advice on my these plans i’d really appreciate it, Thanks!
I will be starting my bicycle trip from Rome to Brindisi come June 3. I would love to read your whole book!
Is it by the way allowed to ride your bike on the SS7? I know people even walk along it, so probably yes.
You’re going to have a great time! It is allowed to ride your bike on most of the SS7. The road changes a lot, and I don’t like to ride the whole way. Out in the countryside, SS7 is very peaceful and scenic. Close to the cities, you will find a lot of traffic, industrial sites, and garbage. I recommend getting a map from Touring Club Italia. Then you can pick an alternate route.
Hi Anna,
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. You can take a train back from Brindisi but there are two obstacles. If you take one of the main trains straight to Rome you’ll have to put your bike in a box (you can get one at a bike shop in Brindisi). Or you can take local trains that allow you to bring your bike right on the train. The second option is a lot of fun if you have the time. You’ll probably have to spend at least one night somewhere along the route, but this can lead to new and interesting discoveries. (I spent an extra night in Gravina on the way back, and the hotel owner’s cousin gave me a detailed tour of the town). If you decide to do this, be aware of strikes (“sciopero.”) The day after the foresaid night in Gravina, I had to ride for another day because the trains weren’t running. But in return for this inconvenience, I got to see more wildflowers, castles along the Adriatic coastline, the nightlife of Caserta (better than you’d think) and a tour of Benevento my third (and final) day on the route back to Rome.
Good luck!
I wish I was there right now
You are a lucky man and I hope I will be able to take a part of your ride on a way you did. Eagarly waiting a copy of the book.
Cheers!